Our Pigmentation Actives by dermaviduals
Complexion Skincare Liposome Plus. The active ingredient is tranexamic that has a lightening effect on the pigmentation without harming the skin’s surface. It also has an effect on inhibiting the tryosinase thus will slow down the production of melanin. Vitamin B3 encourages even skin tone and texture whilst improving elasticity at the same time. Niacinamide enhances the function of the skin barrier by increasing ceramide and free fatty acid levels.
- Liposome Concentrate Plus azelaic acid inhibits melanin synthesis and is effective against hyper pigmentation and melisma
- Whitening Concentrate: extracts inhibit tryosinase and the formation of melanin. Liposomal encapsulation increases its efficacy and is suitable for long term use.
- Vitamin A: supports collagen formation and promotes the regeneration of the skin. Recommended for the treatment of prematurely aged skin affected by UV damage.
- Vitamin C: free esters of the Vitamin C are released by enzymes and support the formation of collagen. Recommended for use before and after laser treatments to prevent the formation of melanin deposit.
Corneotherapy and Pigmentation
Repairing the skin barrier. It is very important to restore the skin barrier function and in doing so, repairing the bilayers of the stratum corneum before commencing any treatment protocol for pigmentation. This procedure of bringing the skin into homeostasis has become known as corneotherapy and uses base creams with a structure similar to the bilayers of the skin. Appropriate moisturising substances are amino acids, which are also contained in the NMF (natural moisturising factors) of the skin. Corneotherapy is the perfect precondition to support the healing process in the deeper layers of the skin. In this regard, the well- known dermatologist professor A. Kligman has coined the term ‘outside-in’ therapy, to which dermaviduals subscribes. Disorders of the barrier function are caused by intense UV radiation. Imagine a car parked in an outside car park all day in summer-the same scorching heat on the car is also evident on the skin. Hence protection is vital.
Protect photo-damaged skin in the long run in order to avoid accumulated damage. This does not necessarily mean permanent use of sunscreen. The skin requires a small amount of UV light to produce vitamin D3. However, it is very important that the cells are safely protected. The unique dermaviduals delivery system enables this to occur. Phosphatidylcholine has proved successful as mentioned above in bringing an element of natural sun protection. Combinations with amino acids (Natural Moisturising Factor) with the potential to scavenge reactive oxygen-containing radicals and peroxides, and CM Glucan which is a natural polysaccharide derived with DNA protective function, do not strain the skin and are free of allergenic and irritating substances. Utilising these ingredients in base creams will provide a level of cellular protection against UV damage, and a sunscreen should be applied for UVA and UVB protection.
Vitamin C with a double function.
The skin elasticity is impaired by UV radiation as well as by IR radiation activated collagenases and metalloproteinase. Liposomal Vitamin C derivatives may activate the collagen forming enzymes by permeating the vitamin C derivatives into the skin where they are hydrolyzed by enzyme reactions. In this regard applied vitamin C has a lightening effect so the skin produces less melanin to protect against UV radiation. Thus Vitamin C liposomes may also be used in case of hyper pigmentation. Similar effects have liposomal encapsulated vegetable extract of mallow, mint, cowslip, lady’s mantle, veronica, balm and yarrow that are utilised in dermaviduals whitening serum. These plants are reported to inhibit tyrosinase which is responsible for melanin synthesis. As tyrosinase inhibitors may only be used on a preventative base, already formed pigmentation takes some time to show a lightening effect. Peelings may increase the effects as they remove part of the already formed melanin; however caution needs to be taken with the nature of the peel as these in itself are often a contributing factor.
Skin care concepts.
In addition to the protection against further sun damaged, it is important to focus on long term care for pigmented skin. Experience shows that in addition to the above mentioned corneotherapeutic measure the application of liposomes and nanoparticles proves successful as they repair skin problems which are induced by disorders of the ceramide group. They interfere with the ceramide sphingomyelin balance, reactivate the exchange of substances between the different skin layers and catalyse the natural regenerative potential of skin.
For further reading:
1. Dr Hans. Lautenschlaeger, various publications beauty forum & cosmetic medicine